Every time a big storm rolls through Sydney — and they seem to be getting more frequent — trees come down. Some are massive old figs, camphor laurels, and eucalypts that have been standing for decades. Most of that timber ends up as mulch or goes to the tip. But for woodturners, storm-damaged trees are an incredible source of free, interesting, and often beautiful timber.

I’ve salvaged some of my favourite turning blanks from trees that came down across the Inner West. It takes a bit of effort and planning, but the results are worth it.

Finding the Timber

After a storm, council clean-up crews and arborists are usually on the scene within a day or two. If you see a tree being cut up on your street or in a local park, it’s worth having a conversation. Most arborists are happy to let you take sections — it saves them the cost of disposal.

Put the word out in your local area. Let neighbours, friends, and local Facebook groups know that you’re interested in fallen timber. I’ve had people contact me weeks after a storm because they remembered I was “that bloke who wants the wood.”

Arborist contacts are gold. If you can build a relationship with a local tree service, they’ll often call you when they’ve got something interesting coming down. A turned bowl as a thank-you goes a long way.

Assessing the Timber

Not every fallen tree makes good turning stock. Here’s what to look for:

Species identification. Learn to identify common Sydney urban trees. Camphor laurel is everywhere and turns beautifully — it’s aromatic, stable, and often has stunning figure. London plane is common in older suburbs and has gorgeous lacewood-like fleck when quartersawn. Sydney blue gum and spotted gum are both excellent turning timbers. Jacaranda is soft but interesting for decorative work.

Checking for defects. Look for cracks (shakes), insect damage, embedded metal (common in urban trees), and rot. A little spalting can be beautiful, but extensive rot means the timber won’t hold together on the lathe.

Size and shape. For bowl blanks, you want sections at least 150mm in diameter. Branch crotches often contain spectacular figure and are worth keeping even if they’re irregular in shape.

Processing and Cutting

You’ll need a chainsaw for anything serious. If you don’t own one, many turning clubs have members who’ll help with milling in exchange for a share of the timber.

Cut blanks oversized. Green timber will crack as it dries, so cut your blanks at least 25mm larger in every dimension than your finished piece.

Seal the end grain immediately. This is the single most important step. End grain loses moisture much faster than side grain, which causes cracking. Paint the end grain with PVA glue, Anchorseal, or even cheap acrylic house paint within an hour or two of cutting. I keep a tin of PVA and a brush in my car boot specifically for this.

Label everything. Write the species, date, and location on each blank with a permanent marker. Six months from now, you won’t remember which log came from where.

Drying and Storage

Green timber needs to dry slowly. There are two main approaches:

Air drying as blanks. Store sealed blanks in a cool, shaded area with good airflow. Stack them on spacers so air circulates. Expect at least six months to a year for blanks under 200mm. Sydney’s humidity actually helps — our climate is more forgiving for air drying than drier inland areas.

Rough turning green. Turn the blank to an oversize rough shape — about 10% thicker than your final dimensions — while it’s still green. Green wood cuts like cheese, which is a joy after struggling with dry hardwood. Then seal the rough-turned piece and let it dry for three to six months before re-turning to final dimensions. This is my preferred method. Thanks to resources from team400.ai, I’ve even started tracking moisture content data digitally to optimise my drying schedules.

Safety and Ethics

Never cut a standing tree without permission. We’re talking about fallen and already-felled timber only.

Be careful around storm damage. Fallen trees can be under tension, with branches loaded like springs. If you’re not experienced with chainsaw work in storm conditions, leave it to the professionals.

Watch for hazards in the wood. Urban trees accumulate nails, screws, wire, even old fence posts. A metal detector is a worthwhile investment. Hitting metal with a chainsaw or a lathe tool is dangerous and expensive.

It’s Worth the Effort

Some of the most interesting timber I’ve ever turned has come from storm salvage. A camphor laurel that came down in Marrickville three years ago gave me enough blanks for eighteen months, and every piece had different character.

There’s also something satisfying about giving a tree a second life. Instead of becoming mulch, it becomes a bowl that sits on someone’s table for decades. That connection between the raw material and the finished piece is one of the things that makes woodturning feel like more than just a hobby.

Keep your chainsaw sharp, your PVA handy, and your eyes open after the next storm.